"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
03/12/2018 at 12:00 • Filed to: Saab 900, project, wrenching
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"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
03/12/2018 at 12:00 • Filed to: Saab 900, project, wrenching | 3
| 6 |
Despite a busy weekend, my brother found time to start cleaning up the front calipers for rebuilding. I think they’re gonna turn out nicely.
Made a little progress towards removing the starter motor, too. It looked like it was going to be easy-access, but it turns out the clutch cover had to be wrestled out of there. Hello clutch!
Still haven’t had a chance to really test it out, but we do know that the clutch pedal does operate the pressure plate. Don’t want to jinx anything, but I must confess I’m kinda curious what it’s like to change a clutch that’s accessible from the top like this. At the very least, we’ll bleed that circuit as we finish bleeding the brakes.
Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
> Urambo Tauro
03/12/2018 at 12:29 |
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Woo! Saab work! I got the alternator secured (again) on mine after discovering the bolt securing the tensioner to the block was loose. MAN that thing was inaccessible. My hands look like I put them down the garbage disposal, but my alternator isn’t jumping around anymore so... there is that.
On the clutch bleed, you should do a little bit of research before you get started. The tl;dr is the clutch master is positioned in such as way that it is really hard to get all the air out with a conventional bleed. Most people seem to pressurize the reservoir using a modified spare brake fluid cap. I did a “conventional” bleed to get the old fluid out and then did a reverse bleed using a large syringe to push fluid into the bleed nipple and out through the reservoir. Took forever, but it seemed to work. Allegedly I should have also done it with the clutch pedal in... but meh, it works fine so...
kstn
> Urambo Tauro
03/12/2018 at 12:39 |
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Pro tip for changing the clutch: Get 3-4mm steelwire (something like 30-50 cm) and a piece of pipe (6-10cm diameter, 5cm is long enough)
1) Press the clutch pedal all the way down (keep it down)
2) Put a 3-4mm steel wire around in between the pressure plate so it won’t pop back.
3) release the pedal, slide the axle out towards the front as far as it comes (= against the radiator)
4) Unscrew the whole assembly off the flywheel and use some pipe [diameter 6-10cm] and a bench press or so (I usually lift the frontwheel up and use the car as a weight) to press the fly wheel down with the pipe to release the wire from between the pressure plate. (5cm long piece is ok for the pipe)
5) change the plates, press the pressureplate down and put the wire back in to hold it.
6) Put it all back together.
7) Ask around how long it takes for someone to change a clutch to his/her car.
8) Brag about how fast you can change your clutch.
I can do it in 20 minutes on a parking lot while alone. Otherwise it will take more than 2 hours even from an experienced guy because the radiator has to come off etc. Nobody changes the clutch faster than a true Saabist.
You’re welcome!
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Urambo Tauro
> Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
03/12/2018 at 13:05 |
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Funny you should mention that. I’ve been bleeding the brakes on my cars with an assistant in the driver’s seat, or sometimes a Mityvac hand vac pump, but I do have a pressure sprayer and an extra brake fluid cap that I never got around to assembling into a pressure bleeder. The cap that I have won’t fit the Saab, but maybe I can track a spare one down...
Oh, and in case you’re wondering, yes I did steal your post title haha.
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Urambo Tauro
> kstn
03/12/2018 at 13:09 |
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That sounds so easy. I don’t want to wish on my brother having to add a clutch to his to-do list, but if it does come to that, then I’m looking forward to it.
dogisbadob
> Urambo Tauro
03/15/2018 at 20:56 |
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Napa Total Eclipse calipers are awesome
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Urambo Tauro
> dogisbadob
03/15/2018 at 21:13 |
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I don’t have much experience with Napa’s offerings, unfortunately. Closest store is 20 miles away.